SUITABLE TYPES OF SUB FLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION
The sub floor must be flat, dry and clean. Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.
To check for flatness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor for any high/lows relative to the string. Subfloor must be flat to 1/8” per 6’ (3mm per 0.92 meter).Any unevenness in excess of the flatness specification must be sanded down or filled with appropriate leveler.
Biltmore can be installed over most existing floors including wood, vinyl, linoleum and ceramic/porcelain tile if the existing flooring is intact and secured to the subfloor. If installing over ceramic/porcelain tile, grout lines must be filled with a skim coat of floor leveler.
Biltmore should not be installed over carpet. Doing so will void the warranty.
Biltmore should not be installed in sunrooms or rooms with direct sunlight. During peak hours of sunlight, blinds/shades or drapes should be closed.
Biltmore is water resistant, but is not a moisture barrier. It is suggested a moisture barrier is used when installing over newer concrete or a wooden subfloor. The product can withstand topical water and water penetration for up to 16 hours without being damaged. However, water leaking over or around the outer edges of the flooring can damage a wood subfloor. This is not considered a defect in the flooring.
Moisture arising from new or old concrete can create high levels of moisture vapor emissions, hydrostatic pressure and high levels of alkalinity. This combination is highly corrosive and will damage the floor over time. To avoid this problem, a calcium chloride test and PH level test must be performed prior to installation. If the level of vapor emissions / hydrostatic pressure exceeds 8lbs and /or the alkalinity level is 9 or higher, a moisture barrier must be installed over the concrete.
Note: New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installation.
If considering Radiant heat, only Hydronic radiant heat can be used. The heating components must have a minimum of 3/8” separation from the product. System must be operational for a minimum of two weeks prior to installation. Five days prior to installation, the temperature should be reduced to 65⁰F (18⁰C). After installation, the temperature can be raised gradually ( 5⁰F per hour) to a maximum operation temperature of 85⁰F(29⁰C). An in-floor thermostat is recommended to avoid overheating.
Transition strip must be used for installation longer than 45 linear feet and/or wider than 30 linear feet. It is suggested to use T-Molding in doorways.
Remove the tongue (on the long side) from the first row of planks. This will ensure that the decorative surface of the flooring is under the finished trim when installed. Use a utility knife to score through the tongue several times until it easily snaps off (Figure A).
Note: The first row of planks may need to be trimmed lengthwise for a better fit at the end of the installation. Measure the room and divide by the width of the plank. If there is a remainder of less than 2”, the first row will need to be trimmed by that amount.
Starting in the left hand corner, place the first plank with its trimmed side towards the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion gap of 1/4” (7-8mm) between the wall and the flooring (Figure B).
Attach the ends of the 1st plank and the second plank by lifting the 2nd plank and inserting the tongue on the short side into the groove of the first plank and lowering it into place. Line up edges and corners carefully (Figure C).
Continue along the wall until you reach the last full plank, connecting each plank in manner described above. To fit the last plank, turn plank over (face down). Place the plank in the corner so the tongue on the short end touches the adjacent wall. Measure overlap between the installed plank and the last plank (Figure D1 & D2).
Using a sharp utility knife and a straight edge, score a line on the top surface of the plank. The plank should split on the score line with little effort. Use saw to cut plank to size.
Note: the end pieces must be longer than 8”. This may require cutting a plank to start a row depending on the size of the room.
Begin the next row with the cut off piece from the previous row to create the necessary stagger pattern. This piece should be a minimum of 8” (20cm) long and the joint offset from the previous row should be at least 10” (26cm) apart. To attach, tilt the plank you are installing slightly upwards (about 15-25º), insert its tongue into the previous row’s groove and lower it into place. The plank will click into place with light pressure (Figure E).
Install the second plank in the second row by inserting the short end tongue into the previously installed plank’s groove. Align the plank so that the long side tongue tip is positioned just over the groove lip of the plank in the first row (Figure F). Working from the end seam, at a low angle, insert the long tongue into the groove of the adjoining plank. Very little force is required to fit the tongue into the groove. You should be able to feel the tongue lock into the groove (Figure G). Continue locking each piece into place, short side first and then long side.
To fit the last row, lay a plank on top of the previous row. With the plank against the wall, mark a line down the length of the plank and cut the planks accordingly (Figure H).
Door Frames and heating vents also require expansion room. Cut the planks to the correct length. Place the cut plank next to its actual position, use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side. T-molding is suggested in all doorways.
You can trim doorframes by turning a panel upside down to use as a height guide. Using a handsaw, cut door frames to the necessary height so that planks slide easily under them.
To finish the perimeter of the room, install quarter round molding using finishing nails. Nail quarter round directly into the baseboard not the flooring.